Chasing The Wind

Metal Detecting Tools

Metal Detecting Tools of the Trade.

By: Brian Atherton

Whether new to the hobby or a seasoned dirt fisher, the tools you use are as important as the machine itself.

The right equipment can make all the difference between a good day and a frustrating one. You don’t have to spend thousands or even hundreds of dollars to equip yourself. A pinpointer and a digging tool can be had for under 20.00 total.

In fact, my first digging tools were a surplus bayonet and a 15.00 pinpointer.

Let’s assume you’ve already gotten your machine and are ready to go detecting.

Pinpointers

 

You don’t NEED a pinpointer, but let’s just say it’s a lot easier and cleaner than the “pick up a handful of dirt and wave it in front of the coil” method.

A pinpointer allows you to keep more soil in the plug (piece of dirt with the grass in it. This was covered in my previous article ‘how to properly dig a plug”) I prefer to use the White’s bullseye only because I trust the White’s name and use their detectors. There are other fine pinpointers out there, Garrett also makes a good one.

Digging Tools

 

A good digging tool is also necessary. I recommend having a good folding shovel and a tool to cut sod with in grassy areas like yards and parks, where it’s good etiquette to leave no trace. The shovel can be used where appearance isn’t as important such as wooded areas.

 

I have used a Lesche digger for a few years now, and it is phenomenal. It is just sharp enough to cut sod and smaller roots and not the user’s hands, and it has a saw edge on one side for tougher roots.

I asked George Lesche why it is only serrated on one side and this was his answer; “Since most users are right handed, we serrated the side that would be pushed away from the user so as not to fling dirt or the tool into the user’s face and body.” Pretty smart if you ask me. His tools are also used by the military, which says a lot.

The price tag on a Lesche is around 40.00, if that’s a little steep for you, you can make your own like I did using a surplus bayonet. But remember to dull the blade or you may injure yourself.

As I started digging in more remote areas, (cache hunting and the like), I realized that a Lesche was just too much work for targets 10” or deeper. I shopped around and found a folding shovel. This one is made by Gerber and is of exceptional quality, it folds up easily and is lightweight.

This cost me around 40.00 as well, is made in the US like the Lesche, and is almost indestructible.

Tool Belts

So, now that you have all of this equipment, where are you going to CARRY it? That’s where the detectorists’ tool belt comes in.

 

When I first started, I would put my pinpointer in one pocket, my digger in the other, and my finds in another. Not a very optimal way to detect.

Then I saw a tool belt at a local hardware store and bells went off. The tool belt cost me 15.00 and is worth every penny. I position it so the pouch is in front and it doesn’t interfere with my movement.

Search Coil Versatility

Much like tools, one search coil can’t possibly do everything. Some search coils will go deeper and cover more ground, but the trade off is just that, it covers MORE ground.

That means that if you have a good target, and a bad target 4” apart, you will get overlapping signals.

 

You can use a smaller coil to prevent this, however a smaller coil will only cover so much ground and not go as deep. And then there is the maneuverability problem. Sometimes you can’t get your coil in between trees or at the base of a structure.

Most machines come with a stock coil in the 9-10” range. This is a pretty good compromise, and will serve you well in most situations.  I will use the White’s machines and coil sizes for an example here, but the same holds true for any good manufacturer’s product.

I use four coils, the 5.3” for trashy or tight quarters detecting, like between trees, the stock 9.5" coil for less trash, the Super 12 for low trash and maximum coverage, and the S.E.F 10×12 for high mineralization and greater depth.

To summarize, metal detecting isn’t just about the machine, it’s about the experience. And the more thought you put into your equipment, the more enjoyment you will get from it.

Happy Hunting.

BD Atherton

 

Metal Detecting Tips

I stumbled across a great article and wanted to share with everyone. I have an older, yet very dependable Fisher Gold Bug metal detector. I love exploring. This article gave me some great new ideas.

Metal Detecting in Urban or Developed Areas

By: Brian Atherton

Most heavily populated and metropolitan areas are built over older areas, and even if they are not, the volume of people can present a welcome assortment of silver, non-silver (called clad by detectorists) and jewelry finds as well as artifacts from the turn of the century.

What to look for.

You will want to start out by doing the obvious….driving around.

This will give you a feel for the area, and it’s history. You will want to look for areas that are still generally flat, or that would have been “untouched” for the last 30 years or so.

These areas can be spotted by their lack of modern landscaping, larger trees and shrubbery.

Look for empty lots in urban areas that have very large trees in them, or sunken areas.

These indicate that a home was there previously.

Often times an abandoned home will be demolished or burnt, and the remains pushed into the cellar hole.

This causes a slight depression after the debris settles over a period of many years.

Look at the curb as you travel your target area. You may see a place that has no curb, or a newly replaced section of curb that is about the same size as a driveway.

Often the presence of lilac or rose bushes in an empty lot will provide clues as to the previous layout of the structures.

These were very popular around the turn of the century, and often times will have survived, leaving a clue for those who pay attention.

Look for large trees in arrangements that would be in front of a home, or lining a drive.

Oak or Elm trees in a row is a dead giveaway that a larger home was once in an empty lot.

Be unconventional. Just because an areas is now zoned “industrial” or “manufacturing” does not mean it always was.

In fact, most areas with older homes in them were built before these laws were in effect.

So, don’t overlook that lot in front of the factory you drive by every day.

Another thing to consider.. Those “bad areas”, occupied mostly by multiple occupant homes made into apartments are actually good detecting locations.

Those were often the “nice” neighborhoods from the late 1800s, and early 1900s..

The larger homes were often broken up into multi unit apartment buildings, and the neighborhoods changed..

But NOT what is under the ground.

It is still there.

You just have to go after it.

Resources.

There are many tools available to assist you in your search, you just have to apply the right one to your situation.

A wonderful tool is the Sanborn map collection.

These are fire and insurance maps originally collected in the late 1800s, up to the 1960s or so.

These have the location of businesses, homes and other features, exact dimensions and other useful information.

You can get a paid subscription here: www.sanborn.com/products/fire_insurance_maps.asp

A lot of them are available free of charge here:www.maphistory.info/imageus.html

www.gelib.com/historic-topographic-maps.html

www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/map_sites/cities_sites.html

These can be compared with modern maps and firsthand knowledge to help you locate properties to search.

Permission.

Often the hardest part of detecting these sites is obtaining permission in the first place.

If the area is privately owned, the owner can be located by either going to the neighbors and simply asking who owns it. This will often lead you right to the owner.

Other times, it is more challenging.

Most cities and towns have a website with deed lookup free of charge.

Unfortunately, some areas either charge for this or have only paper copies which can be accessed at the county assayers office. (I have attached a photo of a random address and the contact info)

You will be able to find the deed owner and contact information on this site, or through this paperwork at your county building or library.

Then it is a matter of asking the property owner for permission to detect on their property.

I would stay away from written permission letters.

People get nervous when you start asking them to sign things. A verbal agreement and a handshake should be enough.

Chances are, you will not have much success in obtaining permission from holding companies or large real estate entities.

These companies will forward any request for access to a staff or retained attorney.

You will get permission if an attorney is involved perhaps one in a thousand times. They get paid to think of liability, and this is all they will think of. You will not be granted permission by these groups, it is a fact of life.

Often good results can be obtained by looking up landowners and private individuals that own many rental properties in cities.

A private individual in this situation will generally be receptive to detecting on empty lots in their care, or even the larger homes they own and have turned into rentals.

If you are allowed permission by the landowner in inhabited units, be sure to talk to the individual that lives there. Even though you have permission from the owner of the property, it is just common sense and courtesy to ask those that live there.

And who knows, you may interest a future detectorist..

Keeping any agreements and being responsible is up to YOU.

You serve as an ambassador for the hobby, and your actions in the eyes of the public affect us ALL.

After obtaining  permission.

OK, you’ve gotten permission… now what..

First off, you need to look at the overlay.

Are there any safety hazards, power lines, gas lines, bramble bushes, poison ivy, holes, bee nests, broken glass, etc?

You need to look at the neighborhood.

Is it safe?

Once you have determined these things and dealt with them accordingly, you can proceed.

A good approach if you have a symmetrical area like a city lot or yard is gridding.

Start at a corner, and work the area you can cover, walking slowly to the opposite corner, and turning at the border, overlapping your swings, and your path. (think of it like you are painting the area).

Keep going til you have it all covered…

If you have time, start again at the opposite end and working crosswise.. (Say you started in the NW corner, and walked East.. Now start in the SW corner and walk North, crossing in the opposite direction.

Be sure to cover all holes, and be responsible. Remember that you are on private property with permission, so there is no rush.

If you are working a habitated structure, start with the areas around the porch, doors and sidewalks. Then detect the bases of trees, radiating outward.

Don’t forget the entire length of clotheslines, curbsides and areas among trees where a picnic table may have been.

Chances are you may find an item that belongs to the current resident.

If it is obvious that the item was recently dropped in an occupied yard, contact the resident. Chances are you may do a good deed.

After a while, you will develop relationships with people that will lead to places to detect in the future..

Good Luck, and Happy Hunting

BD Atherton

 

Getting To Know Your Claim

A claim worth owning that you will enjoy for generations to come - Make your dream a reality!

Unpatented mining claims for sale or lease in the famous Cedar Creek Mining District, Mineral County, Montana. 

The claims are accessible; located 25 miles off Interstate 90 near Superior, Montana. 

Do you want to spend next summer doing something exciting? Camp on your very own mining claim and prospecting for gold flake and nuggets!

Wildcat 

Gray Lady Down

Bonanza Gulch

Barber Gulch

Southern Cross

Hard Times No. ! & 2

Hard Times No. 3

Eden's Gate

Click here to visit Gold Prospectors Supply Company

You must be 21 years old and a United States citizen to purchase a claim.

Read and Research

Expand your knowledge of prospecting. During the winter months, when snow lays heavy on the mountain, research the history of the area and study local . Learn the location of roads, trails and open clearings. 

Plan your adventure and organize supplies, survival kit, camping and mining gear and equipment. Be sure to take extra batteries, plenty of food and water as well as bug-spray and bear repellent. Weather conditions can change rapidly. Be sure to carry warm, water repellent clothing. 

           Getting To Know Your  Claim

In northwest Montana, our mining season is short. Spend as much time as possible getting to know your claim. Carry survival gear, emergency food and a compass or GPS. The forest is dense and it is easy to get turned around and lost. As you explore your claim, always know the way back to your base location. Cell phones do not work in the area of the claims. 

Obtain a detailed topo map of the area. Have the section where you are located, enlarged and printed. Grid off the area on the map. Number the grids. Carry a pocket notebook. As you prospect and explore, make detailed notes of your findings in each numbered grid. Sketch out a map of the localized area to provide future references points when you are ready to commence explorational testing. (It is a good idea to set up a permanent file system or journal. Transfer your field notes into a permanent mining journal, making note of the time of year, the water level in the stream, weather conditions and personal observations. Your records will prove invaluable in evaluating the claim and developing it to its full potential.)

Make note of important topography features including areas of exposed bedrock, quartz outcroppings, water falls, gravel or sand bar and dramatic changes in the streambed. Exposed bedrock with deep creavices or fractures can trap gold washed downstream by spring flooding. (Moss that in embedded in the cracks of bedrock often contains fine gold trapped within its roots. Plan to wash pieces of the moss carefully in your gold pan. Manipulate the moss until all sediment is released. Drop the moss back in the stream. It will float downstream and attach to a fallen log or rock. The moss will grow again and your test has not harmed the fragile eco-system. Pan out the material. Note if you found color and the percentage of black sand and quartz particles.)

Take note of the thickness of the alluvial cover (gravel, sand and soil) and the types of float rock and quartz. Look for rusty, stained pieces of quartz, they may contain visible specks of gold. 

Look for locations where the streambed makes a sharp turn and widens. (Gold moving downstream will slow down at that point and will be deposited on the inside curve of the streambed. Bedrock outcrops or large boulders will also break the flow of the water, allowing gold to settle on the downstream side of the obstacle.)  

Do not limit your prospecting to the current streambed. (Over the centuries the stream may have changed course many times. Fallen trees, erosion, landslides, avalances and heavy spring flooding change the course of the stream. Examine points higher up the bank, some of your best color may be many yards from the present stream bed.)

Hold Your Horses!

Do not start your testing in the first good looking spot you find. Locate several potential areas before deciding where to begin. If you test the first spot that looks promising and you locate some gold, what happens? You will likely remain right there and work the area. Doing so, you may find some gold flake or gold dust. With the same effort, and a little more testing you could be recovering nuggets, fifty feet away. 

Oldtimer prospector’s alway say, “Gold is where your find it!” Truer words were never spoken. Gold may hide in heavy or compacted gravels or impervious layers of clay or heavy sediment. Gold and other heavy minerals eventually work their way down until settling on false bedrock (cemented or compacted layers) or bedrock. Given perfect conditions, they form the “golden yellow paystreaks” you are looking for. Increase your changes of sucess. Test bedrock locations first.

Use Your Metal Detector

Use your metal detector to examine areas of exposed bedrock. Detect upslope from the bedrock as well. Test the tops of ridges or outcroppings. The soil in Mineral County is highly mineralized and has a rich history of gold production. During the Cedar Creek Gold Rush, hundreds of men worked the drainages. You may find lots of rusty nails, mining artifacts or old coins and brass buttons. Make sure your detector is ground balanced, but do not discriminate. Dig every target. You may find a nugget or a valuable piece of mining history. (Keep careful notes regarding your detecting sites. Record finds and if you feel the location justifies further exploration.) 

Save Your Concentrates

Always keep your concentrates. Store concentrates from different areas in seperate containers, clearly marked with the location. Double check the heavy concentrates in your pan, even if gold is not visible. A small, high quality magnifiying glass is a handy tool. Pyrite cubes, garnets and black sand are indicators of gold. Not all gold is visible and may be coated with other materials. Your gold may contain a heavy concentration of fine gold or other valuable minerals including silver and platinum. 

During the winter months, carefully fine pan or use a micro-concentrator to evaluate your samples. You may be quite surprised by the amount of gold recovered that is not visible to the naked eye. 

Many mineral dealers will purchase black sand concentrates. 

Prospecting, Patience & Perserverance

Claims are from 20 to 160 acres. 160 acres equals almost 7,000,000 square feet. That is a lot of land to prospect. You will not find gold in every spot you dig, no matter how mineralized the claim. Placer gold is deposited erratically. A sucessful prospector is a patient and persistent treasure hunter. Learn how to read nature’s clues and you may be finely rewarded for your labors. 

 

One Of The Rarest Gemstones On The Planet

Planning a spring prospecting trip to California. My reseach turned up this interesting information on San Benito County. Hope to include a trip to the mine.

Have you searched for Benitoite? Have you found any? Please add to the discussion by posting your comments or experiences.

"Benitoite is a rare blue silicate mineral, found in hydro thermally altered serpentinite. Hydro thermally altered serpentinite is science speak for a type of rock that formed by cold submarine volcanoes that rose from the ocean floor. This layer of rock is full of faults and is weak and easily eroded. When mineral laden water fill the cavities the minerals dissolved in the water sometimes crystallizes and is left behind when the water leaves.

"Benitoite was named after the county where it was first found, San Benito County, in 1907 and to this day San Benito County is the only place in the world that you can find this gemstone, making it among the rarest gems on the planet. Benitoite became California's official state gemstone in 1985. The price of this gemstone is between $500 and $3,000 per carat depending the quality of the stone and most of the gems found are less than one carat in size.

This crystal is often confused with a sapphire and if the jeweler that is cutting your stone does not know the difference, he can damage the stone with the heat from their torch. The gemstone will turn orange or in the worst case break. Always use a jeweler that is familiar with this type of gemstone.

Another unique characteristic of this rare gemstone is its has a very unusual crystalline shape called ditrigonal-dipyramidal (pyramidal). It is the only known crystal to take this shape naturally. Benitoite fluoresces very strongly under short wave ultraviolet light (UV), appearing light blue in color. Treasure hunters search at night for this glowing gem with UV lights but beware, scorpions also glow at night under UV lights and some hunters have been stung by them.

Benitoite have a very high dispersion which makes them very bright. They have a refractive index of 1.757 to 1.804. This characteristic makes sparkle brighter than diamonds. They have a hardness rating of about 6.5 on the Mohs scale which is not nearly as hard as a diamonds that has a rating of 10.

The Benitoite Gem Mine has field trips open to the public. You will need to make reservation in advance and in the winter or rainy season, because of the bad roads; you will need to reconfirm your reservations 1 or 2 days prior to your trip. No services other than a porta-potty are on site and the nearest food and water is at least three hours away.

The mine opens at 8:00 AM and closes at 4:00 PM. For about $100 per day per person you are allowed to take home a five-gallon bucket of material. Night field trips are also available where you can hunt for benitoite with black lights. A mine guide there to help and explain what to look for, how to operate the screens, how to night hunt using a black light and other information.

The roads to Benitoite Gem Mine area are very rough and suitable for 2WD vehicle with a high clearance during the dry season. A 4WD is always the preferred automobile and never try to make the trip in the family sedan. Campsites are available on the surrounding BLM land except in the summer months when camping is prohibited on BLM land. If possible drive in one day and camp overnight and then take the full day treasure hunting."

Happy Treasure Hunting. 

David Cowley has created numerous articles on Treasure Hunting. He has also created a Web Site dedicated to Treasure Hunting. VisitTreasure Hunting

Courtesy: Benitoite.org

How Are Fossils Formed?

 

For fossil formation to take place a series of fortunate events must occur. If any part of the series is missing, we will never see the fossil! In fact, fossilization is a rare occurrence. Nature tends toward recycling. That includes just about everything from plants and animals to rocks and minerals. Let’s narrow it down to just animals for a minute. Animals, dead or alive, are food for other animals. From insects to dinosaurs, an animal could be someone’s lunch! Any part of the animal’s body that isn’t consumed is usually scattered about; leftovers! Just like those leftovers in your fridge, these leftovers make great food for bacteria. In addition, these leftovers are exposed to the elements: sun, rain, and even the soil itself all help to breakdown and decompose the sturdiest of bones, shells and wood. So, if we are ever going to see a fossil, some very specialized events must intervene to ward off the natural process of decomposition. The following is the most common scenario for fossil formation:

How Are Fossils Formed? 

Death Is The First Step
To start with, an animal or plant must die in water or near enough to fall in shortly after death. The water insulates the remains from many of the elements that contribute to decomposition. An example may be helpful. Let’s say that a trilobite has died of old age on the bottom of the sea. Bacteria consume the soft body parts but leave the hard exoskeleton intact.

How are fossils formed? 

Step two is Sedimentation
As time passes, sediments bury the exoskeleton. The faster this happens the more likely fossilization will occur. Land and mudslides definitely help. River deltas are also good for quick accumulation of sediments. This further insulates our trilobite from decomposition.

The sediments themselves have a huge influence on how well our trilobite fossil turns out. Very fine-grained particles, like clays, allow more detail in the future fossil. Course sediments, like sand, allow less detail to show. The chemical make up of the sediments also contributes to the future fossil. If iron is present, it may give the rock a reddish color. Phosphates may darken the rock to gray or black. The possibilities are truly endless.

Permineralization
As the sediments continue to pile on, the lower layers become compacted by the weight of the layers on top. Over time, this pressure turns the sediments into rock. If mineral-rich water percolates down through the sediments, the fossilization process has an even better chance of preserving our ancient animal. Some of the minerals stick to the particles of sediment, effectively gluing them together into a solid mass. These minerals make an impact on our original trilobite as well. Over the course of millions of years, they dissolve away the outer shell, sometimes replacing the molecules of exoskeleton with molecules of calcite or other minerals. In time, the entire shell is replaced leaving rock in the exact shape of the trilobite.

Uplift
As the continental plates move around the earth, crashing into each other, mountains are formed. Former sea floors are lifted up and become dry land. This is exactly what has happened to our trilobite. Now a fully formed fossil, our trilobite is buried under hundreds or even thousands of feet of rock! Thanks to the movement of the plates, our trilobite will come closer to the surface and nearer to discovery by some fortunate fossil hunter. Luckily, nothing stays the same.

Erosion at work
Rain, wind, earthquakes, freeze and thaw all work toward erosion. The mountains that were built up are worn away over time. Our fossil trilobite once again sees the light of day! With a little wisdom about where to look and some luck, you may be the first one to find him!

This is the fossilization process known as Permineralization. It is not the only answer to the question: "How Are Fossils Formed?" There are many other ways that fossils can be formed. You can read about them using the links below.

About the author - Claudia Mann is a teacher, and a contributor to fossils-facts-and-finds.com where you can find more answers to the question.

Courtesy: FossilHQ

Idaho's Gemstones

Our adjoining neighbor, the state of Idaho, is a fascinating area to explore for treasure and gemstones. 

 

"Idaho is truly the “Gem State”.  Since the origin of the earth, geologic processes combined to make the rocks of Idaho a mineral collector’s storehouse. This, coupled with the beautiful forests and streams, makes Idaho the place where the rock collector’s dreams come true. 

Idaho offers the collector vast areas where precious and semi-precious stones can be found. Many of the collecting areas in Idaho have received international fame because of the beautiful material that can be found with very little effort. Many areas are so remote that they have not yet been exploited to any great extent.  Agate, jasper, opal, agatized and opalized wood are found associated with the great lava flows in the southern part of the state. The northern part of the state has aquamarine, diamond, ruby and garnet. In fact, there is hardly an area in Idaho in which the rock collector cannot find rocks or minerals that will make his eyes light up. 

 

County Information 

 

In Owyhee County there are areas that yield red, yellow, green and mossy jasper of unexcelled quality. The area is nation-ally known for its pink and white plume agate and for its opal, both common and fire, which occurs in vesicles in the volcanic rocks. Banded, scenic, dendritic and sagenitic agates, as well as polka dot, smoky and moss agates are also found. Succor Creek on the western edge of the county yields red and green agates in a rich two-tone combination and a round shaped nodule, which is called “thunder egg”.  These are often found to be geodes with the center filled with fluids.  In some the hollow center is lined with quartz crystals. 

In Gem County fire opal is found in the lava beds of Squaw Butte near Emmett. The opals are salmon pink or cherry red in color and display great brilliance.  Most are very small, but some have been large enough to cut into fine stones.  Near the opal deposits agates of light blue color abound.  Willow Creek has deposits of agatized and opalized wood of high quality as well as massive opal that ranges in 

color from deep red to salmon pink to white and pale blue. 

In Washington County agates of many colors abound.  The most highly prized agates are those that show an iridescence when cut into thin slabs.  Petrified wood from Mann Creek northwest of Weiser is particularly beautiful. The grain of the wood is very prominent and the color is yellow, resembling natural oak.  

In the Beacon area west of Weiser the famous “Beacon Hill” nodules abound. These nodules 

are particularly beautiful because of the scenic or dendritic patterns.  In some the interior is hollow and crystal lined.  

In Adams County rubies and pink garnets are found at Rock Flat near New Meadows.  Several diamonds have been found in this same area.  Sapphires and corundum crystals that sometimes show asterism also have been found in the Rock Flat area. 

In Custer County clear quartz, amethyst and citrine are found.  Large geodes are common.  Banded, red and yellow agate is scattered over the area.  A forest of petrified wood is near Challis.  Near the East Fork of the Salmon River is an excellent collecting locality where a variety of cryptocrystalline quartz is found in blood red sandstone. Near Challis a rare zeolite is found in greater abundance and 

better specimens than in any other known locality.

 

In Latah County common and fire opals have been found in the vesicular basalts.  The internationally famous garnet diggings on Emerald Creek afford the collector an opportunity to find gem and star garnets in remarkably large sizes and quantities. Fossil plant remains can be found in many localities in the siltstone of the interbeds between basalt layers. 

Amethyst is found near Hailey in Blaine County. Opal and opalized wood can be found in Lincoln, Gooding and Boundary Counties.  

Nationally famous flora beds are near Whitebird in Idaho County, and internationally famous “horse” fossil beds near Hagerman in Gooding County. Copper, silver, lead and zinc minerals are abundant in Shoshone, Blaine, Custer and Lemhi Counties. 

The Idaho Geological Survey has publications for sale that describe the geology and mining history of many mineralized areas in Idaho. The collector will find the publications a help in researching for Idaho minerals. Publication inquiries can be forwarded to: 

 

Idaho Geological Survey 

University of Idaho 

Morrill Hall, Third Floor 

P.O. Box 443014 

Moscow, Idaho 83843 

Telephone (208) 885-7991 

Other publication that might be of interest to the mineral collector is Gem Minerals of Idaho by John A. Beckwith, Idaho Minerals by Lanny R. Ream and The Minerals of Idaho by Earl V. Shannon." 

 

What Is Rolled Gold?

As well as looking for it in nature, many of our readers are avid gold collectors, treasure hunters and relic collectors. If that description fits you, please read the post below and post your comments. This one is a challenge.

Hi,

I was wondering what these numbers might mean on an old (gold) pocket watch.  On the inside back panel it says ROLLED GOLD WARRENTED 10 YEARS, and the initials VB in a box, and then these numbers – 1525 – 80.

Thanks very much!

Jack Dunsmoor

California